Tuesday, November 18, 2014

Real Plumbers - What does that mean?



Watch this video to find out.





Thank you,

Jay Bortnik
Journeyman Jay Plumbing
780-266-3939

Serving North Edmonton Homeowners
(who live in their own single-detached house)

Monday, November 10, 2014

Looking for the right plumbing materials


Plumbing is about the right plumber using the right tools to install the right materials.

Plumbing professionals should always be looking for better ways to do things.

That is why we attended CIPHEX 2014 - Plumbing & Heating Tradeshow (in Calgary) this past Wednesday/Thursday. (http://www.ciphexwest.ca/west2014/public/enter.aspx)

Along with all of the manufacturers' booths there were also seminars on plumbing topics.

I attended the seminar on water lines.  There is some contention within the industry with regards to "flow rates" (in the plumbing code) for different materials (copper, pex, etc).

What most people may not know is that flow rates for different materials vary dramatically.  So next time you think crimp pex (sold at home improvement stores) is just as good as the "other pex" or good old copper, think again.  That's why you may want to engage the services of a professionally trained plumber like Journeyman Jay.

 Picture of Journeyman Jay in front of the seminar room at CIPHEX 2014.


Picture of Journeyman Jay behind an interesting valve display.



Thank you,


Jay Bortnik
Journeyman Jay Plumbing
780-266-3939




Saturday, November 1, 2014

"Just" a New Bathroom - Finished

Before we start:

A big THANK YOU to our clients:  Troy & Cassandra.
We really appreciate being welcomed into your home for the week or so (rough-in and, later the finishing) this took to complete.

Photos of the NEW Bathroom project we just finished.





The fixtures in this new bathroom need venting (the pipe going into the ceiling) to operate properly.





 This is the flange that connects the toilet to the piping below.  It also holds the toilet to the floor.
In this case, the toilet flange is a little further from the wall to accommodate the "structural" floor joist that runs under the toilet.  Typically the toilet flange is about 12.5" to 13" off the back wall.




Water line for the toilet.
Wow.  That's it, right?  What about the hidden plumbing?  Where are we going to get the water?  Where is the waste going?




 Water line tubing and "soil" (term used when poop goes in it) pipe connected to WC (water closet) or toilet flange above.



 Waste pipe from LAV (bathroom sink) on left side which is connected to the bigger toilet pipe.
The toilet actually vents through the LAV pipe.



 We have to connect this new bathroom to the existing piping.  In this case we were blessed with a 3" pipe coming from the clothes washer.  But, this meant that we now had to vent a previously unvented fixture (clothes washer stand pipe).  Back in the day, they did this different than we do today.  Suffice to say we also re-piped the laundry so that our connection would conform to plumbing code.




 Lots of fun here.  Back in the dark ages (1950s, 60s, even 70s), plumbers used a lot of cast iron for drainage (and connected it with LEAD - dangerous).  Needless to say we had to make a few cuts into the cast iron to make our connection.  Well it wasn't that straightforward.  Here is what we found  where we were going to connect the new bathroom piping.  This pipe was only draining a clothes washer (for about 55 years).  So we cut out the whole horizontal pipe up to where it went vertical and replaced it with plastic (abs).  These cuts require special blades or special cutters (depending on preference or situation).



 Here is all the additional pipe we replaced (piled outside).



 This is what the attic looks like.  There's plumbing in the attic too??  Yes there is.  Remember the first picture with the vent pipe running up the wall.  It has to eventually connect to a pipe that leads outside.



 More venting we installed.  One pipe is from the laundry and the other is from the NEW bathroom.
We also had to cut cast iron to connect the NEW venting to the existing venting.



 Pipe must grade properly and must be properly supported (see metal strap with 2x4 board) holding pipe's grade (keeping it from sagging and filling with water - bad thing for a "dry vent")



 Here is our "green sticker" from the City of Edmonton Inspector.
He checked our piping and gave it his approval.



 Picture of the "rough-in" for the sink.





A roughed-in bathroom.
(It wouldn't look like much if you didn't see all that was done)


Installing shut-off valves for the water lines for the LAV.



 Braided supply tubes connecting the faucet to the water lines.




 The faucet.




 Installing tank to toilet bowl.




Cut those T-bolts.  
The mark of a neat plumber.




 The NEW bathroom.


To keep it simple we didn't show pictures of:

1.  Upsizing water lines  (from the water meter to the hot water tank to the other branch offs) to  
      accommodate new bathroom and meet plumbing code requirements for water flow..
     (While doing this, we had to also change the "very old" main shut-off as it started to leak after   
       being turned on and off)

2.  Re-piping the laundry.

So, as we mentioned in our previous BLOG posts  - There are many other variables when adding a new bathroom such as:  water line sizing, venting, and drainage capacity.  
This also doesn't even scratch the surface on fire safety, materials, confined spaces, dangerous substances (that might be encased in the building materials of your house).

As you can see, these bathrooms must be well thought out.

For a professional consultation (and possible estimate) give us a call at 780-266-3939.
These consultations and estimates differ from our normal consultations in that they involve lots of time and effort to solve plumbing challenges before anything is decided.  Therefore we charge a reasonable fee for this service. 


Thank you,

Jay Bortnik
Journeyman Jay Plumbing
780-266-3939





























Friday, October 10, 2014

Save Money, Fix Your Drips

Hi again,

Dripping faucets drip more than water.
They drip money - cold hard cash (as some say).



Imagine that drip turning into spare change every day.

$0.06 per day
$1.92 per month
$23.08 per year  (That's a pretty good run to the bottle depot).
(based on $1.96/cubic meter or 1000L of water)


 REMEMBER:  That is only the cost water ... for one single dripping faucet.
There are also waste water charges.....
......and heating costs
(notice the picture:  it is usually the hot water dripping)

We were recently in one home (recently purchased older home), the bathroom faucet was dripping (see picture above), the shower was a continuous stream type of drip, and finally the outside faucet (hose bibb) had a steady drip.




***********************************************************************************

A slow leak of 60 drips per minute wastes:

Daily waste in liters/litres: 32.71
Monthly (30 days) waste in liters/litres: 981.3
Yearly waste in liters/litres: 11939.15
 
SOURCE: American Water Works Association:  Drip Calculator
 http://www.awwa.org/resources-tools/public-affairs/public-information/dripcalculator.aspx
PLEASE NOTE:  The EPCOR drip calculator does not match (not even close) the AWWA drip calculator.  We will be checking out this discrepancy with EPCOR - Edmonton's water utility.

***********************************************************************************
 The other thing to consider is that leaks only get worse, not better.
If you leave it too long, it will be like turning on the faucet ..... and leaving it on/
***********************************************************************************
Usually, in our experience, it happens to a faucet that cannot not be isolated (with a shut-off valve that works or even exists).  Now to stop the flow, you have to turn off the main shut-off valve in the basement (by the water meter).  In older houses, these valves start to leak from the stem (the thing that the handle is connected to), if constantly turned on and off.

As you can see, this could easily turn into quite a "plumbing emergency".
We know what this means - more money for your typical plumber to stop what he's doing right this minute to attend to your emergency.  A costly proposition .... especially if it is in the middle of the night on a weekend.
 
Yeah, sure there are emergencies. 
But if you have known about that "drip" for over a month, should it really be an emergency?
That's why we have this blog. 
To educate homeowners on "plumbing reality."
EITHER everything will turn into a plumbing emergency ....
... OR you can start paying attention to drips, leaks, etc
AND take action to prevent a future emergency from taking place.

IF you live in NORTH Edmonton,
in your own home (single detached house),
we have a SPECIAL OFFER  for you.
PLEASE CLICK HERE for details:  http://www.journeymanjay.com/p/blog-page.html


Sincerely,

Jay Bortnik
Journeyman Jay Plumbing
780-266-3939




Wednesday, October 8, 2014

Is your plumbing GREEN?

Environmental (GREEN) solutions are all the rage these days.

However, there is a different kind of GREEN that you should be familiar with....








The GREEN sticker from the City of Edmonton Plumbing Inspector.


Why is this important?

If you are creating a new bathroom or moving a fixture (toilet, sink, tub) to another location a plumbing permit is required.  One way to know that you have a "real" plumber doing the job for you is his/her ability to get a City of Edmonton Plumbing Permit.  If they cannot obtain a plumbing permit then they are either not a real plumber or real business.  The permit process (which is governed by the aptly named "Safety Codes Act of Alberta') is there to protect you, the home owner, from overtly dangerous conditions that could arise.  It is also there to protect the water and sewage system as a whole.

The GREEN "pass" sticker (in Edmonton - I am not sure about how they pass plumbing in other jurisdictions) is a visible indication that the plumber/plumbing business, which you have engaged to do the work, has at least passed the minimum standards laid out in the Plumbing Code of Canada (and Alberta).
In other words, your plumber is NOT a quack.  It is too bad they don't have this for other professions.


Thank you,

Jay Bortnik
Journeyman Jay Plumbing
780-266-3939

Wednesday, September 24, 2014

Your House Plumbing: Main Shut-off Valve

Hi there!

Journeyman Jay here again to talk to you about your main shut-off valve and why you should probably replace it if it occasionally drips at the stem.

Listen to Journeyman Jay (my alter ego) as he describes
what happened during a recent "new bathroom addition."




Thank you,

Jay Bortnik - a.k.a. Journeyman Jay
Journeyman Jay Plumbing

See our special offer for Norh Edmontonians who live in and own their own "single detached house"

Monday, September 22, 2014

"Just" a New Bathroom

We recently completed the plumbing "rough-in" (drainage/vent pipe and water lines for a bathroom).
And we just achieved another "Green Sticker" from the City of Edmonton (on our plumbing permit for this project).

I say "just" a new bathroom, but it involved re-piping the laundry drainage, adding venting for laundry and the new bathroom, and "upsizing" the water lines to accommodate more water demand in the house.

Most of the rough-in took place in the "crawl space" - about 2.5 to 3 ft high with lots of heating duct in the way (also very dusty - but that's life).

Here are a few pictures.

(Photo above and below) The 3 inch drain that we installed (replacing the old cast iron pipe).

 The photo above is the 2" laundry drain connected to our re-piped 3" drain.  Initially we were going to leave the cast iron in place and just cut into it, however it was all gooed up, so we replaced the whole length with ABS.

 One of the issues in the crawl space was its lack of space.

 The photo above is a 2" LAV (bathroom sink drain) acting as a wet vent to the 3" toilet drain on the right.


Because the pipe hangers had to be so long, we opted to use pipe hangers that are almost never used in houses (you will mostly only see these hangers commercially).  Hangers are important as they keep the grade of the pipe locked in so the waste can run downwards at a grade of about 1/4 inch per foot.



The photo above and below shows some of the water lines we installed.  We tried to use mostly PEX in the crawl space, because soldering copper is a fire hazard (especially so in this cramped crawl space).

Also note that the PEX we used is Wirsbo or UPONOR brand.  It significantly DIFFERS from the PEX that you can pick up at the home improvement stores.   Needless to say there are advantages to using this type of PEX, however most plumbers don't use it because "it costs too much".


 The photo above and 2 photos below are the newly roughed-in Laundry Standpipe.  When we first arrived, we found that the old laundry drain connected directly to a 3" drain which lead into the stack in the crawl space.

All you have to know here is that the original laundry did not meet current plumbing code, but did allow us to easily tie in the new bathroom in the crawl space because it was 3".  However, this also necessitated venting to be installed off of  the new and improved Laundry Standpipe (up the wall and into the attic which then connected to the bathroom venting and eventually the stack vent in a very tight spot in the attic - I might talk about that "fun day" sometime in the future).


The photos below should give you an idea of the spaces we had to work in.  Notice the entrance to this crawl space and how short the clearance is once you are in it.







More pictures to come on this project.


Thank you,

Jay Bortnik
Journeyman Jay Plumbing
780-266-3939


Monday, August 25, 2014

Is Your Hair Clogging Your Pipes?

Do you wash or brush your hair in the bathroom sink?

Occasionally, we are called upon to fix a slow or clogged sink drain.

We recently found a clump of hair (on top of the blue nitrile gloves we used to do this dirty job) recently in a bathroom sink drain -  see photo below.



To prevent this from happening, you could put plastic screens over your bathroom sink and tub drains. Local hardware stores carry them for around $5.  You can also get a variety of drain screens for your kitchen sinks as well.  This could save you from a much bigger plumbing bill.


And of course, if you need a dripping faucet fixed, a leaking pipe repaired or a fixture replaced,
we have a (click here) SPECIAL OFFER (click here) for residents of North Edmonton.

Thanks for reading,

Jay Bortnik
Journeyman Jay Plumbing
780-266-3939




Wednesday, August 13, 2014

Why Free Estimates for non-permit plumbing?

Why Free Estimates for non-permit plumbing?
CLICK here:  Free Estimate offer



1.  Simply, we all need to know what it's (plumbing) going to cost us.
2.  We would prefer to invest our time looking at your house's plumbing instead of paying for advertising.
3.  It gives you, our potential customer, a chance to meet us before we start work on your plumbing.
4.  You are not obliged to use our services.  You have 30 days to decide before our estimate expires.
5.  It also encourages YOU to get plumbing problems looked at BEFORE they become emergencies.

Also see a blog post we wrote back in June about estimates : 

Click on link below:

Top 10 Reasons to get a Written Estimate from your Plumber


Please Note:  due to the amount of work involved in plumbing permit related work
(ie. new bathrooms), those estimates will be for a fee.

We are able to provide Free Estimates to our residential neighours in North Edmonton (north of the river or north Stony Plain Rd.) for plumbing work that does not require a permit (such as repair or replacement of existing taps, sinks, toilets, hose bibbs, pipes).

CLICK here:  Free Estimate offer

Thanks for reading,

Jay Bortnik
Alberta Certified Journeyman Plumber (Red Seal)
LICENSED * BONDED * INSURED
Journeyman Jay Plumbing

780-266-3939




 


 

Thursday, July 31, 2014

Toilet Surprise

Hi there,

Sometimes there is more than meets the eye when looking at a toilet.

Last Friday, all our warnings to clients about "possible broken toilet flanges"  (the things to which we seal and bolt our toilets) came true.

We lifted the old toilet to replace it with a new one that our client had purchased.

And here is what we found......

As you can see (in the photo), we have taken the liberty of taking it apart, cleaning it up, cutting the pipe below and setting it beside the toilet hole.

The picture might have looked a lot more disgusting if we did not clean up the old wax seal (which is kind of brownish yellow in colour and gooey looking)

In this case, the toilet flange was not screwed down.  It was only held in place by the tile itself and the lead bend / stub that actually folds over the flange.  If you look at the left side of the photo, you will see a half flange and a missing chunk of  metal.  That is where the bolt would go to keep the toilet attached to the floor and the toilet drain pipe.

The next picture is that of the new toilet flange that is on its way to being installed.  All we have to do is knock out the middle and screw it down (and attach it to the old copper drainage pipe in the basement).
--- and leak test it, of course (very important).





See the slots on the right and left of the flange.  These are where the T-bolts for your toilet are suppose to be installed. 

Needless to say, a basic toilet replacement turned into something more.  There was no way for our client nor ourselves to know this before the job started.  That is why we will warn you (at the time of our free estimate) that the price of a toilet replacement could increase (more time, tools, and parts are required), if we find something like this.


Anyways, that's enough about plumbing for today.

Thanks for reading,

Jay Bortnik
Journeyman Jay Plumbing
780-266-3939



 




Wednesday, July 23, 2014

Toilets - Knowing this could save you money

Hi there.
We just saw something you should not be doing with your toilet.







Just in case you can't see the words in the picture, they say:

"CAUTION
Use of in-tank cleaning products voids warranty, as they can destroy parts and cause water leaks that may lead to property damage."

This warning is clearly marked by the manufacturer in this case.

This is not an idle warning.  The flapper is usually the first thing affected. The flapper will lose its seal and will cost you money in lost water.  The fill valve is activated when the water level goes down in the tank.  Even more frightening is how this affects the rubber washers around the bolts and the fill valve.  If these were to leak while you were away, then the fill valve would constantly be on because the tank would be leaking.  This could cause massive water damage.

Please do not put any chemical cleaner in your toilet tank.  And always follow the manufacturer's instructions.
....Unless of course, you really want to needlessly pay for more plumbing in your house...
We didn't think so.

Thank you for reading,

Jay Bortnik
Journeyman Jay Plumbing
780-266-3939

Friday, July 18, 2014

A Plumbing Tip

It's great to see that a major manufacturer sees the value in engaging the services of licensed plumbers.
Remember always check for a Alberta Journeyman Certificate and Liability Insurance Certificate.
 

Thanks,

Jay Bortnik
Journeyman Jay Plumbing
780-266-3939


Thursday, July 10, 2014

A Homeowner's Visual Plumbing Inspection

Hi there and Happy Thursday.

Here's a list (in no particular order) of some of the plumbing you should be checking on a regular basis (weekly/monthly).  This list is certainly not exhaustive.  But it is a start.

1.  Faucets (Kitchen, Bathroom, Laundry, Outside)

     Do they drip (one drip doesn't cost much, but what about an extra gallon of drips a day)?
     Are they loose (this could cause serious problems, because a lot have delicate connections)?
     Is there enough water flow (or has it been declining)?
     Check the outside faucets as well.

2.  Sinks

     Are they getting slower to drain?
     Is there moisture under the sink? (you may have to clear everything out to check this)
     Is there hard water stains on the outside of the drainage piping under the sink?
     Do you have a metal enamel sink in your bathroom?  (these usually rust around the drain & start to leak)

3.  Bath Tubs / Showers

     Does the faucet drip?
     If it is a tub with a shower, does all the water get diverted to the shower head?
     Are there water stains on the ceiling below the tub or shower?

4.  Toilets

     Can you flush without having to hold the handle down?
     Is it a strong flush?
     Does your toilet make noises when no one is using it?
     Is there water/moisture around the base of the toilet?

5.  Laundry room

     Is the floor wet after doing the laundry?
     How do the water hoses look (are they fresh and new or old and dry looking)?
     Is there a smell in your laundry room that is not fresh?  Maybe pour some water in the floor drain.

6.  Piping

     Do you have copper drainage piping that is soft to the touch?  (in homes that were built before the 70's)
     If your big black vertical drainage pipe (3" ususally) is exposed, run your hands up and down.  It should    be dry.

This brings me to my last point.  Normal functioning plumbing should be dry on the outside (of the fixture or pipe) and wet on the inside.  If the outside of a pipe is wet, or under a sink is wet, or even the inside of a sink is wet after it hasn't been used for a day, then it needs your attention.

Cost is always a consideration.  Everybody operates on a budget and needs to know how much things are going to cost.  We appreciate this and that is why we are offering FREE estimates to our fellow residents in North Edmonton.  Our estimates are good for 30 days.  That gives you time to think, plan, and allocate funds for these important fixes.  But beware, act today, because leaks wait for no one.  One day they are a small drip, the next they are a gusher.

If you have any of the plumbing issues above,

Call us today and book an appointment for a FREE estimate.

 

Sincerely Your North Edmonton Plumber,

 Jay Bortnik

Journeyman Jay Plumbing

780-266-3939

 

Friday, July 4, 2014

If your Bath Tub Faucet Looks Like this ....

If your Bath Tub Faucet Looks Like this ....


 Did you know this tub/shower valve no longer meets plumbing code (if installed new)?


You might consider replacing it with an anti-scald model (which is NOT in the pictures above).

The above pictures were just a repair / replacement of the existing faucet.  Its pipes (really copper tube) in the wall are arranged ONLY for this brand and model of bath tub / shower  faucet (which is no longer approved in the Plumbing Code because it is not anti-scald).  To have changed the type of tub/shower valve would have involved a minor bathroom renovation (tiles removed, etc).

Some of you may say that this is easily solved by turning down the hot water tank to 120 F.  However, that is the point at which HARMFUL Legionella bacteria start to thrive.  The catch-22 is that there is risk of SERIOUS INJURY from scalding if water is above 120 F.  The answer to this dilemma is either a "pressure balanced" or "temperature sensitive" tub/shower valve so the mixed hot-cold water never goes over 120 F WITHOUT having to turn down your hot water tank. 

The one in the top photo had several problems with it, so the home owner opted to buy a whole new assembly (instead of individual replacement parts - the knob was even stripped and wasn't turning anymore).

A more long-term solution would be to eventually renovate the bathroom (changing out / replacing the bathroom fixtures - Bath tub, etc.).  In the process, you could change the tub/shower faucet to a new Plumbing Code approved anti-scald, single handle tub/shower valve.


Here is a picture of a new tube shower valve (with the anti-scald feature) we installed on another recent job.



Thanks for reading,

Jay Bortnik
Journeyman Jay Plumbing
780-266-3939